Socks with Formal Shoes

You choose your friends by their character, and your socks by their colour

Gary Oldman (aka our very own Padfoot)

Sirius Black knew the real deal with socks, y'all!

This one quote offers us a small insight into the glorious world of socks, but in order to truly master wearing socks with shoes – there are some additional details one should know and remember

Lucky for you, I thoroughly enjoy this topic – and if you're here I'm hoping you do too *smirk*

There are 8 essential rules to properly wear socks with formal shoes:

  1. Avoid white socks
  2. Black and dark brown don't match
  3. When in doubt, match your socks with your pants
  4. Wear ribbed socks
  5. Match colourful socks with your shirt
  6. Patterns are fun
  7. Avoid matching patterns
  8. When going sockless, use your discretion

But before we get into that, let's flip this a little bit – for there's a common sock-question that's far too important to be left unanswered:

Is It Okay To Wear Formal Shoes Without Socks?

The short answer – No.

The long answer – Only if you like blisters and smelly feet. Also, NO.

Socks might be a tiny detail in your overall outfit but they still play an important role.

Formal shoes are generally made of leather, which is pretty good at absorbing moisture. Not wearing socks increases the chances of foot sweat being soaked up by the leather, causing those funky smells none of us are fans of. A good pair of socks will act as a barrier between your foot and the shoes, thus helping to avoid smelly shoes

Besides, leather can be hard and rough on your feet – by not wearing socks with formal shoes you're subjecting yourself to future discomfort because the friction will likely cause callouses and blisters on your feet

So please, let us vow to always wear socks with our prized dress shoes

Common Sock Materials

Almost all the socks today will have a bit of stretch in them which helps them to keep their shape. This means that you'll find socks with a blend of fabrics

A lot of natural (cotton, wool) and synthetic (polyester) blends are used. Many clothing brands will also have their 100% synthetic socks which are made of performance fabrics. These, in my opinion, should be reserved for athletic uses only.

An all-synthetic pair of socks might not be the best for wearing many hours at a time

You can check the labels to see what you're buying, but the most commonly used sock fabrics will usually be from the below materials

Cotton

Cotton socks might already be in all of your wardrobes, and for good reason. They are comfy, and cotton as a material is appropriate for both casual and formal socks.

Cotton

It is lightweight and breathable, but keep in mind that cotton socks will also get soaked easily in cold or wet weather

The thinner ones are usually dress socks, while thicker cotton socks can be used for casual wear.

Unless you have specific needs (based on utility and weather), I'd recommend good cotton socks to be a major part of your sock collection. Look for Egyptian cotton – those will be more expensive but of better quality and softer than regular cotton

Wool

Wool

You think of wool and you think of winter – because which other fabric is better at keeping you warm than wool right? Bingo.

But contrary to popular belief, wool will also keep you cool when the sun comes out; it is more breathable that you'd guess.

The thick ones would still be for the colder months, though. If taken proper care of, woolen socks will last you a long long time while also consistently looking pretty good.

Just be careful of that wash though – you wouldn't want your socks to shrink

Pro tip: Take comfort and feel to the next level by finding socks that are made of cashmere. Royal treatment for your feet, imo B-)

Silk

Silk is the most expensive and luxurious material among all three, which also warrants its careful use.

Silk

Most guys won't have any (or maybe 1-2 pairs of) silk socks in their closet. This is because they aren't of much use except in the most formal of occasions like black and white-tie events. And even in such events, it is not a big deal if you're not wearing silk socks. Thin cotton or fine wool socks will work just as well

Even though silk is very comfortable on the skin, it holds up heat like anything should be completely avoided in warm conditions.

Types Of Socks

There are lots of terms used for different types of socks, but categorizing them in terms of their length is the easiest one. You can find more types than the four that are mentioned below, but for most situations, these should be enough

No Show Socks

As the name suggests: no-show socks, don't show *shrugs*

These will cover only your foot and end just below the ankle i.e around the heel. No show socks can be worn when you want to give off the impression that you are not wearing any socks, aka the "sockless" look

Exposing those mankles is a hit trend, and many men have gone as far as going for wearing this with full suits

Ideal for the summer, no-show socks definitely have a place in your wardrobe, but whether you wear it or not depends on the situation and vibe of the event

Ankle Socks

Ankle Socks are no-show socks that grew up 😛

Ankle Socks

No, seriously. The name says it all – Ankle socks are roughly an inch longer than no-show socks – so that they cover your ankle as well

With shoes, ankle socks will still show so be mindful of that

I used to think earlier that no show socks and ankle socks are interchangeable, and basically preferred ankle socks because they peeked just a little and were more comfortable. Turns out I was wrong because it is not the same 🙁

Buy ankle socks if you like the idea, but reserve them only for sports and athletic use. It's primarily what they are meant for, after all.

Oh, and you can wear them for outdoor activities such as treks and hikes as well. They will protect your ankles, but also allow them to breathe

Crew Length Socks

These are the socks you and I know very well, for we've been wearing them all our lives! Crew length refers to Calf length i.e. these socks reach the middle of your calves

Crew Length Socks

For most of your daily needs (both formal and casual) crew socks will be enough. I even wear crew length socks with boots and haven't faced any problems with them.

The only times you need to be careful with such socks is if you have a pair that's old and saggy. Bunched up crew socks that keep falling down exposing your leg, is not a good look. You have more important work to do than to keep pulling them up throughout the day.

There are sock garters in the market that can help with this, but it is always better to not let the situation get there

Over The Calf Socks

Over the Calf socks were traditionally worn with suits. They are long enough to completely cover the calf so that there are no chances of them bunching down, thereby getting rid of the one disadvantage of crew-length socks

Over the Calf Socks
Photo by Daniel Max on Flickr

Such socks aren't as popular these days now. Very few brands still continue to make them, so if you want to buy over-the-calf socks it might be a difficult (and expensive) find

8 Tips to Properly Wear Dress Socks With Formal Shoes

#1: White Socks Are A Big No-No

If there is one rule that you must always remember about socks, it's this.

Never Wear White socks with Formal Shoes

White socks are ONLY for sports, not to wear with formal shoes.
Heck, they aren't even appropriate with casual shoes in case you're wondering

I see so many men wearing white socks to the office, and it is a big pet peeve of mine. These socks will contrast starkly with the rest of your outfit, causing a visual disconnect between your pants and shoes

Let's repeat this golden mantra of good sock-style: We must never wear white socks with formal shoes

#2: Black And Brown Don't Match

Another cardinal rule that will always apply, even if we are talking about something other than shoes

Avoid wearing brown (darker shades or even tan) shoes with black socks, and black socks with dark brown shoes

These colours don't complement each other so it will be better to look for other options if you ever find yourself thinking of pairing them together. You might think black socks, being black, would go with everything – which is normally true but with the one exception of brown

Tan shoes with black socks is a mistake lot of guys make. While it might still not be a big faux pas if you wear tan and black (as compared to dark brown and black), I'd suggest you find some other socks to wear

When confused between shoes and socks, always change the socks because you're likely to have more sock options in your closet than shoes. The other tips in this article will help you with that 🙂

#3: When In Doubt, Match Your Socks With Your Pants

This is for those times when you're in a hurry, or you'd prefer to stay subtle and traditional in your outfit choices.

Don't overthink, and just match your socks with your pants. This means black/grey socks with black/grey pants, blue socks with blue pants, brown socks with brown pants. It is always nice to have a couple of solid sock pairs in each of these colours; they'll be useful in many different situations.

A trick to following this tip while still adding some interest to your outfit – is to wear socks that are one shade darker or lighter than the colour of your pants. You might end up doing this unknowingly anyway, as your pants and socks will rarely be from the same brands and of the same shade. But it is still a good tip to know for those times when you'd like to be intentional

Note that on occasions that demand solidarity or conformity – such as business meetings or funerals – go for pant and sock matching over all the below rules. You will still look good, but will keep up with the respect that such situations deserve.

#4: Wear Ribbed Socks

If you'd like to add additional detail to your dress socks but are not yet comfortable in experimenting with brighter colours – play with texture!

Ribbed socks look very interesting even if they are in neutral colours. They have the ability to appear playful while still being professional, which is really cool in my opinion. How many socks let you do that?!

And this does not mean non-neutral colours are totally off your list. You can still wear ribbed socks in bold shades.

I have two pairs in orange and purple which I wear with my dress pants quite often 😉 Since your socks are not going to show THAT much (except while sitting) it really is okay to do that

A friend from work has even nicknamed me the 'nice sock guy' due to my choice of socks 😛

#5: Match Colourful Socks With Your Shirt

I instinctively started doing this with colourful socks, but then read about it and it's an actual thing (I thought I was the only one!)

Matching the colour of your socks with your shirt adds a balance to your outfit, so the socks aren't the only part that's standing out.

Yes, it might feel matchy-matchy at first, but there are ways you can get around this while still following it. If you want to be a little conservative with this tip, match the colour of your socks with an above-the-waist accessory instead of the entire shirt. A tie, pocket square, watch, or even a bracelet would do.

Or, if your socks have a number of colours, pick out the least bold colour and then wear a shirt in the same / lighter shade. Examples can be a baby pink shirt with the red in socks; light blue shirt with the blues, cream for the yellows, and so on. You'll still be balancing out the colours, but in a much subtler manner

#6: Patterns are fun

If you've tried textures / solid bold colours and enjoyed them, patterns will take it to the next level.

Stripes, checks, paisley, sharks, french fries – all of these are patterns, and here's where things get really (and I mean really) fun.

Yes, there are traditional patterns (stripes, checks, paisley, diamonds, small polka dots) and non-traditional patterns (everything else) but you can play with colours in both.

Traditonal patterns in neutral shades will be more formal than such patterns in other colours, and non-traditional patterns will be the least formal irrespective of the colour or its print. Remember that, the next time you think of wearing those socks with burgers on them

#7: Avoid Matching Patterns

While using the colour of your socks in your shirt / accessories is a good idea, wearing the exact same pattern for both is not. For e.g. if you're wearing a polka dot shirt, avoid polka dot socks and vice versa

If the patterns are different then it is okay, but one of the patterns should be subtler, or otherwise, there should be no pattern at all. Same patterns for socks and shirts (or even socks and pants) is not a good look – it is too loud and gives off the appearance that you are trying too hard

To be honest, I've committed this fashion crime before – but the rest of my outfit had solid colours and the shirt was of a neutral shade, so I got away with it. Just like you, I'll be more mindful about this in the future 🙂

#8: When Wanting To Look Sockless, Use Your Discretion

The sockless look is all about no-show socks, like described in the earlier section

But whether you should go for it or not depends on – a) the occasion, b) the rest of your outfit, and c) your discretion. The last point is especially important because you need to understand if a situation is casual enough to wear no-show socks, or if it requires a certain level of sobriety from you

Over time you'll get better at this, but for now, show off those ankles only in the most casual of situations. And when wearing them with any kind of pants, ensure that no more than 1 – 1.5 inch of your leg shows while sitting – anything more than that takes away from the look.

Also, as per current "trends" (I don't like that word), you *can* wear no-show socks with white sneakers and a blazer too; just don't wear it with a full formal suit. Yes, there are men who do that – but the wide majority of us cannot pull it off

Start Sockin' Em Up!

These 8 tips should be enough for you to make the best sock choice for wearing with formal shoes. Hopefully, you've understood how sock colours can play an important role in showing off your unique and personal style.

The basic colours should be the first socks you buy as they will look good with all your outfits. Once you have those set, then go bold, go wild and have some fun.

Socks are one of the best ways to inject some personality into your outfits – and the fuller your sock drawer is, the more options you'll have.

Go ahead, and sock 'em!

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